I’ve been to Hokkaido during the summer a few years ago but I’ve always wanted to experience their famous Snow Festival.
Due to Covid19, this festival was canceled for a few years and this year (FEB 2024) is the first time that the biggest festival was coming back so I thought it was the perfect time for me to go.
I chose to fly to New Chitose Airport via All Nippon Airways from Haneda Airport. The flight was about ¥26,000 roundtrip, which that time, was cheaper than taking a bullet train. We departed at 14:00 and arrived at 15:00.
We were supposed to take the bus from the airport to the bus station a few minutes walk from our hostel but because of heavy snow, bus trips were canceled. We had no option but to take the train to Sapporo Station (about an hour train ride from New Chitose Airport), we finally got there around 17:30 then we took a taxi to our hostel. The queue for the taxi was so long it took us 20min to finally get in one. It was -2ºC that night so maybe I would take an earlier flight next time just to be safe and to avoid being stuck somewhere at night without means of transportation in case buses and trains stops.
We stayed at Helio Hostel Sapporo for ¥61,031 (5 nights) for one person. The hostel was alright, it was super clean but I did not like their bunk beds because you have to crawl in the dark bunk bed before you reach the switch for the light instead of the entrance, so if you forget to turn it off when going out, you have to crawl back again to reach it. For me that’s inconvenient, and I stayed at dormitories that are better than that for much cheaper. If you stay in dormitory hostels you probably know what I’m talking about.
The shower room is also on another floor and the men and women shower room is only divided by a curtain. It’s also at the same area where people hangout because the kitchen and lounge is also on the same floor. So for me as a woman, It doesn’t feel very comfortable if you’re traveling alone. The door for the individual shower room has a lock but sometimes, after a hot shower you don’t want to change inside because then you’ll be sweating in your new clothes. The one I stayed in Osaka has it’s own shower room in the female dormitory so you can walk around in your towels and dry your hair and what not and it’s alright because you’re all female.
I usually stay at hostels when traveling but I’ll give this one 6/10 rating. The location is really good though and I like the staffs who worked at the lobby cafe. It’s one of the cheapest I found and it’s in the middle of Odori Park where the main festival (snow sculptures) is held at and Susukino Venue for the ice sculptures. I had so much fun walking around these venues during the day and night so location is very important to me. If you are traveling as a couple though, it might be better if you stay at Apa Hotel Susukino Eki Mae because the price was about the same getting a room for two people or La’gent Stay Sapporo Odori Hokkaido if you have more budget.
Feb 03, 2024
For our first night, we decided to have seafoods for dinner and went to Kaniya Sapporo Crab House (Main Branch). There are so many restaurants where you can eat crab but most are fully booked and this place was the only place that let us wait. So better plan ahead and make reservations, everywhere is busy during this time of the year.
We ordered 3 different course set. They did not have the “all-you-can-eat-crab menu”. I got the lavender course, and I really liked it. It’s a course meal so they take it to your table one at a time. We paid ¥34,364 for the 3 of us-including our drinks.
After that, to my surprise that we can eat more, we really wanted to eat oysters so we went to KakiMo Bi-ruMo Nama GaSuki. For me this place is more like an izakaya. The cocktails are very mild, I had to ask for a double shot.
After eating and drinking we want to relax and go to an onsen and found a gem in the middle of Tanukikoji Shopping street. This shopping street is where you want to go for shopping for omiyage/souvenir.
Komichinoyu Honoka is a 24 hour super public bath. I cannot recommend this place enough. Technically, tattoo is okay as long as it’s not that big and only up to 3 (according to their poster), but my friend has a lot and she was still able to get in. It was covered with clothes when we checked in. They have massage too, although I wasn’t able to get one because they’re all booked up. You have to reserve early because this place is so popular with the locals. You can also stay here overnight until 9:00am for as low as ¥3,600. They have 2 big baths and I believe they change the themes every now and then. 3 individual baths and sauna room with a cold water bath tub outside. They also have hot beds where you can lay with your clothes just like in Korean dramas. I JUST LOVE THIS PLACE SO MUCH I’d definitely go again when I go back to Hokkaido.
Feb 04, 2024
The next day we went to La’gent Stay Sapporo Odori Hokkaido for breakfast. We paid about ¥2,660/person for breakfast buffet at Northern Kitchen All day Dining restaurant because we’re not hotel guests but I guess the price changes during peak/off season. IT WAS SO WORTH IT THOUGH. I wish we went earlier so we can enjoy the food more but they were already closing their breakfast buffet when we got there. Make sure to check the times. It’s snow festival season so I think price hikes are normal. This hotel is good too because they have their own onsen, a little pricey but you get onsen, good breakfast food and superb location.
After getting fuel for the day we started walking to Odori Park to see the giant snow sculptures and inflatable characters. WEAR LOTS OF LAYERS AND SNOW BOOTS with good grip because I saw many people slipping. I like the snow festival in daytime but the night view was great too because of the illumination lights.
11:20 – After exploring the park, we took a taxi to go to Sapporo Beer Museum. It was nice to learn the history of beer so I think you’ll really like this place especially for beer lovers. There is a tasting beer hall but I didn’t try it because I don’t want to be too drunk to do anything for the rest of the day. We played with snow outside for a little bit.
Then we took a bus from the beer museum to go to Sapporo Station. From there we took a train to go to Tomamu Station.
We took the 14:17 train from Sapporo to Tomamu so we can get there around 16:05. Then we took a free shuttle bus to go to the hotel (Hoshino Resorts Tomamu). You can buy your entrance ticket here and we waited in line till they open at 17:00. Ice Village is a few minutes walk from the hotel.
I tried their Ice Ramen but it was too cold I ended up getting a hot soup. My friend bought marshmallows and roasted it outside while I waited for my order. I even met a fellow traveller Cathy from Hongkong and shared travel experiences. I love talking to people when I’m traveling. I noticed I become more outgoing and less shy around strangers when I’m by myself. This is why I recommend solo-traveling for people who wants to develop their communication skills.
After eating I went to the observatory to watch the fireworks at 19:30 and it was so amazing! Some people watched it from below near the ice rink but some staffs recommended the view from above and I cannot recommend it more. I would check for the time because it might be different from when I went.
After the fireworks display, I did some ice skating for a bit before heading back to the hotel to wait for the bus to go back to Tomamu Station and took the 20:30 train going back to Sapporo station. There’s another train after that but we chose to take the one before the last just in case we miss the first one, then at least we won’t be stuck there. Also, it’s 1 hour and 45 train ride so we really want to get back to the hostel and rest. It was -3°C that night, good thing they have a waiting room so we didn’t have to wait outside while it’s snowing.
When we got back to Sapporo around 22:30, we were so hungry so we went to Ramentoguchi Susukinoten and you know, got ramen. Honestly, I’ve had better ramen in Fukuoka and Yokosuka but I don’t know if it’s because I was too tired or because someone in my group said it’s not that good, that it influenced my taste buds that night, however, if you go around Susukino area, you will definitely find good food that will satisfy you. But at that point I was too hungry I would eat anything warm and be happy.
I kind of want to stay near this area next time because it’s closer to everything. One of my favorite tattoo-friendly onsen in Sapporo, shopping malls, my new favorite Karaoke bar 俺STUDiO, and food food food. A friend was staying at Apa Hotel Susukino Eki Mae the same time and the price for a night wasn’t much different with what we paid for ours if two people are staying in one room.
Feb 05, 2024
Next day we woke up a little late, got ready and ate breakfast at J.S. Pancake Cafe.
Then I took my friends to Shiroi Koibito Park , went shopping and explored the underground shops of Sapporo Station. After that I met-up with an old friend from grade school and we went to see the ice sculptures near Susukino station. It was confusing for me first which one is which, or if everything is in the same area, but the snow sculpture event is in Odori Park.
…and the ice sculptures is in the middle of the road that they blocked for a period of time a day near Susukino station. But it’s 10-15min walking distance from each other so you don’t have to take a car or anything.
For dinner we went to Wagyu Shabushabu Sukiyaki Fujiyama. We ordered their course meal and I think it’s one of the best shabu shabu course meal I had in Japan. I always recommend it to friends going to Hokkaido and they all loved it.
After dinner we went bar hopping and ended our night at the karaoke bar Karaoke bar 俺STUDiO where you can sing karaoke on a stage with a real band.
Feb 06, 2024
If you wake up with a hangover after a night out like that, head to COCONO SUSUKINO mall 3rd floor foodcourt. Everything looked good but I really want to try Hokkaido curry so I got the chicken & vegetable curry from Rojiura Curry SAMURAI.
After lunch we went to Gigo, a game center in the same building. We played darts and arcade and had a really great time there. Then I said good bye to my friend Paulo and his friend and went on my solo trip to Mt. Moiwa. I bought Taiyaki from Tokachi Daimyou and chocolate croissant from ESPRESSO D WORKS/DRAセブン to bring with me. Both are really delicious but the chocolate croissant was bomb!
I took the tram/streetcar (or as locals calls it “Shiden”) from Susukino station to go to Ropeway Iriguchi Station. Riding the shiden was one of my favorite moments during this trip because I really missed solo traveling. I was so excited to go to a new place, without having anyone to blame me if I get lost, or complain about bad food at the restaurant that I picked.
I got off Ropeway Iriguchi Station and walked. There’s supposed to be a bus nearby to go to Ropeway Iriguchi, but I had to wait a while so I just decided to walk and explore at the same time. I stumbled upon a nice coffee shop called Miyakoshiya / 宮越屋珈琲 THECAFE and ordered coffee and cheese cake.
Then I started walking again towards the Ropeway Station. Departure to the middle station is every 15minutes and I got there right on time for the 15:30 departure.
I would aim to get there a little close to sunset because the view was really nice up there during sunset and at night but waiting for a long time for the sun to set was hard because it was too cold. I suggest check the sunset time and get there about 30min to 1hour before and stay there for the night views. I was already in the ropeway going down around 17:30 and it was just getting dark and I kind of regret going down early because the night view looked so good! But I was too cold at that point I needed to go down.
There was a line to take a picture at “The Bell Of Happiness” so I think you would have enough time to queue if you get there an hour before sunset. Maybe next time I go here I wont be solo anymore, Ha! This landmark is popular for Filipinos after Kita Kita movie featured this location. You can also buy a padlock, write your name with your “jowa” (significant other), and attach it to the fence.
19:00 – Back at Sapporo Station for spa. I took the Streetcar originally going back to Susukino but I got off two stations away (Nishi Yon Chome) from Susukino station and I can’t remember if I walked or took a cab to go to Sapporo Station.
I was so tired and so cold all I wanted was a hot bath and a good massage so I called Sky Resort Spa Pulau Bulan if they can squeeze me in for a massage appointment and I got lucky because they did. I stayed here till they closed at 23:00 and got the best massage of my life I felt like a brand new person after. It was about ¥25,000 but definitely worth every yen. If you want to give yourself a gift for working hard then this is THE ULTIMATE GIFT. I slept like a baby when I got back to our hostel.
FEB 07, 2024
10:00 – Next day I met up with a friend to go skiing. We went to Snow Cruise Oze and I liked the view from above overlooking the sea while you go down the slopes. It was my first time skiing and it was surprisingly harder than snowboarding. I thought it would be easier because I am pretty good at ice skating but oh boy, I was so wrong. It was soooooo different.
I brought my own ski wear, but the rest is rental. They also have good food at their food court so you won’t get hungry. You can also enroll in their lessons if you are a complete beginner.
We left around 17:15 and on our way back decided to go to Shikotsu Ice Festival. The road going here was dark and we saw at least 2 huge deers and 1 small animal. If you are not confident driving in snow, I suggest take a taxi or private service. It looks like it’s hard to get a taxi from this place so if you are going to take a taxi, you might have to ask them to wait for you to take you back to your hotel. Prices ranges from ¥25,000-¥40,000 for private services.
*This article states that there is also a bus going here from the airport for ¥1,050 but I can’t find the timetable for the return trip so maybe you can ask at the airport how to go back. Maybe you can reserve bus seats there.
FEB 08, 2024
Before my flight at 17:00 I went to Komichinoyu Honoka for hot bath one last time in the morning(that’s how much I loved it!). Then walked to Taimomi to get a massage, which was recommended by my friend and it was really good! The price was very reasonable so if you really love massages I highly recommend this place.
This trip was really memorable for me because I got to travel with friends, met some new friends who were there at the same time, an old friend who I haven’t seen in decades, and also got to travel by myself even for a day, I forgot how much I missed solo-traveling! If you made it this far, thank you for reading my journal.
There’s so much more to discover in this beautiful country I call home now, and I feel grateful to be able to go to these beautiful places in Japan and would love to share the amazing places with you so you can experience it as well.
Thank you always for reading till the end!
EAT, SLEEP, TRAVEL, REPEAT =)
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