I think I found the best spot to practice surfing for beginners.
I’ve always wanted to try surfing but didn’t know how to swim so I couldn’t go with friends for a long time. I was always jealous because they look so cool. I was scared of the open water because I cannot swim. I couldn’t do a lot of things like scuba diving or even kayaking and SUP without a life jacket.
I only started to learn around year 2017 after going to Phuket, Thailand and feeling frustrated that I had to wear a life jacket while a lot of girls looked cute in their swimsuits.
I enrolled in the gym that has a pool and practiced with friends but even after being able to swim in the pool, I still wasn’t confident in the sea. I know I am not a good swimmer but I really want to try surfing.
Back in July 2018– I went to Iioka Beach for the first time to surf with my friend Emiko. My friend and her instructor told me to stay on the shallow part of the sea and practice balancing myself on the board while they go to the deep part of the practice area for a bit. Well, turns out I don’t listen and you already know what happened right?
I drifted off to the deep part of the sea where my feet wasn’t touching the bottom anymore. After a few small waves, I got too confident thinking it wasn’t so bad and that I can handle it. I didn’t notice that I was drifting to the part where the “professionals” practice.
Then a big wave came and I fell off my board and rolled with it like I was inside a washing machine. I panicked because I can’t swim well in the sea and I can’t feel the bottom with my feet. I yelled “HELP!” in 3 languages but no one helped me so I just tried my best to swim and breathe.
It’s funny how our body reacts in a fight or flight situations like that. I suddenly became a pro swimmer and somehow got back to the shore. But it was so hard because the board was attached to my foot. I felt like it kept dragging me farther from the shore.
I remember crying when I finally reached the shore and I really thought I was gonna die that day. I went back and sat on the car, looked at the beach and the people surfing. How can anyone like this kind of dangerous activity? Why everyone, including kids, seems to enjoy it while I’m in the car crying my eyeballs out.
After about an hour of crying and looking back on “my life” and the realization that I almost drowned and this is like.. my second life. (I know, so dramatic.) I did not want to leave that place defeated and scared of the water and the experience.. I got up and went back to get my long board and went to the practice area… but only to the shallow part this time.
I tried my best to practice that day but I can only stand on my knees. I was still proud of myself for just going back though and not letting the experience of almost drowning, stop me from doing things that scares me.
July 2021– I tried surfing again, this time in Enoshima. It’s been 3 years since I last did it. A lot of things had happened since I left Chiba and moved to Kanagawa like Covid, heartbreak and depression, that stopped me from doing the things I loved the most. I stopped traveling, working out, hanging out with friends. I had a lot of anxiety dipping my foot back to doing things I used to like and enjoy.
I really want to be good at surfing but I get anxious going in the water and looking at the waves coming. I was scared I might fall off the board again. I was scared when I can’t feel the bottom with my feet. It didn’t help that the person I went with this time was getting frustrated at me for being scared. At the end of the day, I still couldn’t stand up on my board. I left Enoshima that day feeling disappointed in myself.
Fast forward to Aug 19, 2024, 3 years after my last attempt at surfing. I asked my friend Maria if she can take me and my good friend Alysa to go surfing with her. Maria introduced us to Sakuma-san , a pro-surfer who teaches surfing. We signed up for his 2-hour beginner lesson using a long board (¥5,000/person). Usually it’s more expensive. We practiced doing “pop-up or take-off” and paddling in the shore first before going in the water.
I really like Sakuma-san because he is so patient. So many times I said I probably won’t be able to stand up again that day but he will just say, YES YOU CAN. Maria also taught me how to do the “Chickenwing pop-up” where you use your rear leg/foot first and then the front foot to get on your surfboard.
The pop up or take off is the most important move in surfing and this is where we were having a hard time doing. I thought I wouldn’t be able to do stand up that day and was losing hope but then IT HAPPENED.
I finally was able to stand up for a few seconds and I didn’t fall off! I thought, did that really happen? No way I can do it again. I just got lucky earlier but I tried again and I DID IT FOR THE SECOND TIME.. This time it was longer than the first time. They called it the long ride.
Everybody at the beach and the shore was cheering and clapping for us it was so touching. It was one of the best experience I’ve had! Thank you Sakuma sensei for being so patient with us. Someone said that people get addicted to surfing after being able to do a long ride and I think he is right because I definitely want to go again.
If ever you want to try it, please don’t hesitate to message me and you can come join us. I know how scary it is to do it for the first time and it helps if you are with other people.
After surfing, there is a nearby public bathroom where you can shower and there’s also nearby hotels, campgrounds and airbnb’s. I personally recommend Ryo’s Surf House. It’s a very unique accommodation. He built his surf house using shipping containers and wood mostly by himself. Ryo-san is also a surfing instructor and you can find all the details on his website. He can also pick you up from Narita Airport if you’re coming from abroad.
Surfing is highly dependent on various natural conditions (wind, tide, current). You need to check the forecast before planning a trip especially if you’re coming all the way from Yokosuka like me. My friend recommended this app called Surfline to see the surfing forecast and if the waves are looking good, you know where to find me.
#MarieJournals
