I think Tsukuba just became my newest favorite city in the Kanto region. They have parks, museums, adventure spots, onsen, and hiking areas — so many things to do there. We even passed by a road lined with ginkgo trees, and the autumn foliage was absolutely beautiful!
For this trip, we decided to hike Mt. Tsukuba, one of the 100 Most Famous Mountains in Japan (Nihon Hyakumeizan / 日本百名山). It’s the lowest mountain on the list, but the panoramic view from the top is still really amazing. I first climbed it back in 2018 to prepare for my Mt. Fuji hike, so this was my second time — but this time, we did it for the sunrise view.
It is customary to stop at Tsukuba Shrine and pay your respects before heading to the mountain peaks via hiking trails or cable car, but we didn’t start from the big torii gate this time.
I got this map from this website. You can check it out for different trail courses or go to Yamap app and customize your route. We took the Otatsuishi-Course / おたつ石コース.
We parked at Mount Tsukuba Tsutsujigaoka Parking Lot and started our hike from Mitsuiya Sightseeing (Gama Cave / Gamaland). It was still dark when we started our hike but we took the stairs near the vending machines.
TIMELINE
5:05 – We started our hike, and the trail was well maintained. It would be hard to get lost even in the dark as long as you have a headlamp, since there are plenty of signs — although most of them are in Japanese, so it helps to remember the kanji. You’ll want to follow the signs for 女体山頂 / Nyotai Summit.
05:43 – We reached Benkei Hut. It’s a nice place to rest, but we were in a hurry to get to the summit so we wouldn’t miss the sunrise. Next time, I think I’d start the hike earlier because I’d prefer to go slower and enjoy the view more.
06:15 – We finally reached the first peak , 女体山頂 / ニョタイサンチョウ / Nyotaisancho “Female Body Peak”, just in time for sunrise. I am so glad we didn’t miss it and we had enough time to admire the twilight. Nyotai (877 masl) is a little bit higher than the other peak, 男体山頂 / ナンタイサンチョウ / Nantaisancho “Male Body Peak” (871 masl).
You’d think Japan would name the higher peak male and the lower one female based on traditional male-dominant culture — but some say they probably couldn’t determine the precise height difference in the old days, so the names were based more on the shape and character of the peaks instead.
The mountain shapes are said to represent masculinity and femininity. The western peak is higher and steeper and is called the male god (Mt. Nantai), and in the past it was believed that it “could not be climbed.” Meanwhile, the eastern peak (Mt. Nyotai) is surrounded by rocky terrain on all sides. Although the ascent and descent are also steep, there are many springs along the path, constantly bubbling up in both summer and winter. Because it nurtures and gives life, it is believed to embody femininity — which is why it is called the female peak.
That said, I haven’t really found a solid historical source that clearly explains this — only speculations and interpretations.
Apparently, when surveying technology improved and accurate measurements were finally taken, it turned out that Mt. Nyotai was actually higher. But by then, the peaks had already been named — so it was too late to change them. Yikes… I bet that didn’t sit very well with some Japanese men back in the old days.
Personally I like the view better in Nyotai. If you’re going for the sunrise I highly suggest you watch it from there.
07:00 – We left Nyotai Peak and headed for the open area between the two peaks called Miyukigahara / 御幸ヶ原 / ミユキガハラ and had breakfast there.
08:00 – We headed for the other peak Nantai / 男体山頂 / ナンタイサンチョウ (871 masl).
08:10 – It was about 10min hike up, or maybe 15min if you go slower.
Yvan, Me, Don, MJ, Jade, Anna, Rona, Roberto
The two peaks of Mt. Tsukuba enshrine the divine couple Izanagi (Nantai-san, the male peak) and Izanami (Nyotai-san, the female peak), who are considered the parents of the Japanese archipelago and all the deities in Japanese mythology. According to legend, their union led to the birth of the gods, which in turn gave rise to Japan itself.
8:30 – We started our descent and finally got to see the trail we had taken earlier — and it was really beautiful. This was a very chill and enjoyable hike, and because of the optional ropeway/cable car, I think it’s a great choice for beginners.
Mt. Tsukuba is known as a popular power spot, and during our descent we came across the famous “toad stone” on the mountain path connecting Nyotai and Miyukigahara. It’s said that if you throw a pebble and it lands on the “mouth” of the toad-shaped rock, you’ll be blessed with good fortune — especially money. Of course, I had to try it too. My third throw landed right on the mouth of the “toad”… and 4 days later, I got my bonus — and it was more than I expected. I’m just saying! The power of the law of attraction is amazing.
10:22 – Back at the torii trailhead.
After our hike we went to Tsukuba No Yu for onsen. They have both an indoor bath and an open-air bath, plus a sauna and a cold bath — which I really love because I enjoy going back and forth between cold and hot water. If you’ve never tried it, this is your sign that you should.
After hiking in autumn, I finally understand why people love hiking during this season, even though it’s colder. First of all, I wasn’t miserable like I usually am during summer hikes. I also noticed that I didn’t have the same difficulty breathing that I experience in the heat. That might be partly due to the cooler weather — or maybe because I’ve lost weight and gotten more used to hiking and running.
All I know is that I had an overall really good experience hiking during this time of the year.
I’m still a newbie when it comes to organizing and planning these hikes, but so far I’ve met some of the best people to hike with. I always look forward to our conversations in the car, and during this hike, I had one of the most eye-opening conversations with Don, who joined us for the first time.
It made me realize that there is so much more to people than what we initially see — and that strangers are really just friends we haven’t met yet.
HIKE LOG
Mt. Tsukuba / 筑波山
-Nyotai Peak / 女体山頂 877 masl
-Nantai Peak / 男体山頂 871 masl
Nov 30, 2024
(Ibaraki Prefecture)
Ascend : 2.5
05:05 – 06:15 (From Torii Trailhead to Nyotai Peak)
Waiting for Sunrise
07:00 – 07:10 (From Nyotai Peak to Miyukigahara)
Breakfast/Toilet break
08:00 – 08:10 (From Miyukigahara to Nantai Peak)
Descend : 2.5
08:30 – 10:22 (From Nantai Peak back to the trailhead)
Backpack Weight : 3kg
Water : 1L (Hydration Reservoir – I used Platypus Big Zip EVO + 500ml petbottle of electrolytes.
Trekking Pole: I only brought 1 stick and not the pair with me just incase I need it, but I did not end up using it.
YAMAP LINK: HERE
Thank you always for reading till the end!
I appreciate all the comments and love hearing feedbacks.
I organize beginner/intermediate hikes in Kanto area and joiners are always welcome so feel free to send me a message if you want to join us.
EAT, SLEEP, HIKE, REPEAT =)
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