Okutama Camping + Mt. Kumotori Hike

Alright Demon Slayer fans…

You definitely know this mountain we hiked last week because it’s where Tanjiro Kamado and his family used to live. If you’ve seen the first episode of Kimetsu no Yaiba, you know which mountain I’m talking about. Episode 1 and this anime already got me crying my eyeballs out.

I recently started climbing mountains on the 100 famous mountains list / 百名山 / ヒャクメイザン and I think I’m hooked! Mt. Kumotori is my 19th peak/summit and my fourth on the Hyakumeizan list. On our descent I was already planning my fifth and sixth for the next hike.

TIMELINE

NOV 03, 2024 (The day before our hike)

Everyone told me that this mountain isn’t very steep, but since it’s a long course, it becomes “a little” difficult in some sections. That’s why we decided to stay at a nearby campsite the night before and start early the next day.

We parked at the upper/outside parking lot near Hikawa Campsite and walked to this free campsite . However when we got there, we saw “No camping” signs all over the riverbank. One of the Japanese guys I spoke to explained that the riverbank has recently become smaller due to erosion, so they no longer allow people to set up tents there to prevent accidents. We did see people hanging out by the river, but tent camping is no longer permitted.

We called Hikawa Campsite to ask if they could accommodate us for the night. At first, they said no because they were fully booked, but eventually they agreed to let us stay. I think it was only because we already had friends staying there that night.

There were six of us and we got 3 tents so I really recommend making a reservation early instead of trying what we did because there is a good chance that they will say no. We paid ¥2,500 each, please check their website for the latest campsite and parking fees.

We finished checking in at 16:40 and started carrying our stuff from the car to the riverside where we planned to set up our tent. It was already getting dark, so we had to use our headlamps. The three of us took about 30 minutes to set up the tent.

The campsite was really beautiful, and we wished we had arrived earlier so we could relax by the river and enjoy the atmosphere. After setting up, we were already too hungry to wait for everyone, so we decided to look around for food. Unfortunately, it was a busy weekend and most places were already full.

TIP: Call the place first and check if they have an available table before heading there, only to be turned away.

Eventually we found an izakaya restaurant called MURAKI. They serve ramen, okonomiyaki, onigiri, and other typical izakaya dishes. The place had a very homey vibe, especially because the one cooking was a sweet Japanese obāchan. The menu was entirely in Japanese and written only on the wall, and she didn’t speak English — so we just looked at the photos on Google Maps and showed her what we wanted.

The portions were smaller than what you’d usually get at regular restaurants, but pretty standard for izakayas. The ramen was a good size for one person, but since we didn’t want to get too full, Sonia and I decided to split it half-and-half.

BUT we always room for dessert, so we bought ice cream at the convenience store before heading back to the campsite. In Japan they call this phenomenon- Betsubara / 別腹. It’s a really great excuse to have a cheat day.

After we got back, we managed to buy some firewood from the campsite store before they closed — about ¥800 for half a box of the thick ones — but none of us could start the fire. It was honestly hilarious.

Good thing our friend Rona was staying at the same campsite. She gave us an igniter and started the fire for us like a true survival queen. She basically saved us from freezing. But honestly, I don’t think we can be trusted with a campfire because it almost went out as soon as she left. Did I mention I know absolutely nothing about camping? 😅

My friend Manny watched some YouTube tutorials while we were sitting there, so I think he might be able to start a fire next time… hopefully.

Meanwhile, our other friend Kenny arrived at the campsite while we were still out and about. He had already managed to set up his tent, finished prepping and cooking dinner, and even went to pick up our other friends from the station — all while we were still struggling to start a fire.

Note to self: Learn basic outdoor survival skills.

After we finally succeeded in starting (and keeping) the fire burning, we began to relax and do some stargazing. I think if you set up your tent a little closer to the river, you’ll get a better view because ours was partially blocked by a big tree. The view was still great, though — we just chose that spot because we didn’t want to be too far from the bathroom.

Next time, we’ll make sure to arrive earlier so we can choose the best spot.

We wanted to sleep early because we had to take down the tents early the next morning. I went to bed around 21:30, but I just couldn’t fall asleep. I don’t know if it was because of the cold (it was about 5°C that night), my thin sleeping mat (there were stones poking my back no matter how I positioned it — my friend suggested getting an inflatable one, so I think I’ll buy that next time), or because I needed to go to the bathroom but was too scared to go alone… or maybe it was a combination of everything.

I got up in the middle of the night and started wearing all my clothes including my down jacket and beanie. I even used those stick on warmer for my feet but I still couldn’t get any proper sleep..

Eventually we got up around 5:00 and took the tents down and started getting ready.

NOV 04, 2024

6:15 – We left the campsite and drove to Kamosawa Trailhead. Our original plan was to come here early in the morning by bus, get off at Kamosawa Bus Stop , and walk to the trailhead from there. However, that would have meant a late start since we’d have to wait for the first bus, plus it would add an extra 1.5 km walk (about 45 minutes) to reach the trailhead.

6:45– We decided to go by car instead and tried to park at Tabayama Village Public Parking Lot but it was already full when we got there. We noticed some people parking along the side of the road leading up to the lot, and we managed to find a space near the third curb. It was about a 7-minute walk from where we parked to the actual parking area.

07:30 – We left the parking area and reached the actual trailhead at 7:35. From there (starting at 766 masl), the sign indicated it was 10.8 km to the summit.

You might want to remember the kanji for this trailhead —Kosode trailhead / 小袖登山口 / コソデトザングチ because most of the signs we saw along the way were written only in kanji with no English translations.

7:55 – We saw our first monkey.. another one 5min later and a lot more maybe 5-6? including baby monkeys a few minutes later.

We got really lucky with the weather that day because you can see Mt. Fuji so clearly.

10:15 – After 2 hours and 45 minutes, we finally reached Nanatsuishi Cabin. We ate here and had coffee. Nobody brought a burner and coffee this time so we just bought instant coffee for ¥300. They have toilet here that you can use (no payment but they accept donation). I event bought a t-shirt for souvenir because I really love the design.

While we were taking a break here, there was a group coming down and they were wearing Demon Slayer cosplay! I was so excited to see them I had to take a picture so I can send to my bestfriend’s daughter. She was the one who told me to watch the anime and I know she would love it.

10:50 – Our break was over, and we had to start moving again since we still had about 4.1 km left to go. The view after leaving the hut was absolutely amazing — one of my favorite parts of the hike. Most of the trail was pleasantly flat, except for the last 1.5 km.

The final 40 minutes before the summit were really tough for me. The trail became extremely steep, but every time I turned around, I was rewarded with a view so beautiful it completely washed away all my exhaustion. It truly made me feel like everything was worth it — and that feeling is exactly what makes hiking so addicting.

12:45 -We finally reached the summit. It wasn’t easy, but we did it. We found a spot near the summit marker and had lunch. There was no one selling food up there, so we couldn’t make our cup ramen — but good thing we brought plenty of eggs and other snacks.

There is a bathroom at the summit, but there’s no tissue paper, so make sure to bring your own and pack it out with you in a bag.

After lunch, you know what came next… of course, we took our sweet time taking photos. Just kidding! I could already see Kenny checking the time because he said we should leave around 13:15, but we were still nowhere near done with our photos.

13:40 – After our obligatory summit photoshoot, we started our descent — and oh boy, I seriously underestimated this part. I usually feel more confident going down a mountain than climbing up, so I thought I’d just enjoy the views and have fun on the way down.

But my knees were still a little sore from the hike the week before, and they started hurting much earlier than I expected.

14:55 – There was a junction called Nekonomata / 猫の又 where the trail splits, and we chose the far-right path that passes by the waterfalls — which I personally loved. However, I wouldn’t recommend this route if you have even a slight fear of heights, because the bridge there has no railing.

It’s not very long, so you’ll probably be fine as long as you don’t look down, but if you’re unsure or uncomfortable with narrow crossings, it’s better to take an alternate route.

15:30 – We passed by a huge fallen tree, so Sonia and I decided to take a “little break” there, thinking we were already close to the trailhead. I even told her it would probably only take 30 more minutes, and I didn’t even bother trying to catch up with the others.

17:15 – It took us 3 hours and 35 minutes to get from the summit back to the parking lot, and by then it was already dark, so we had to use our headlamps. The others didn’t have any, and they told us they had seen a baby bear near the abandoned hut about 30 minutes from the trailhead. They panicked and started running, worried that the mother bear might be nearby.

We did pass a few people descending at the same time, but they were much faster, so for most of the way down it was just Sonia and me.

This course is definitely not for beginners, and I would recommend doing it as an overnight hike rather than a day hike like we did. I think it would be a far more enjoyable experience if you could take your time and truly appreciate the views instead of rushing.

After our hike we went to Seoto-No-Yu for our usual post-hike recovery. I really love this place and highly recommend it. The outdoor bath is great, and I especially love that they also have a cold bath.

According to the sign outside, tattoos are not allowed, but you might be able to get away with a small one as long as you cover it with tattoo tape. This onsen is closer to the Mt. Hinode / Ome area and is about a 1-hour drive from Mt. Kumotori parking lot. We only ended up here because most onsens in Okutama were closed due to the holiday, and this was the first one we saw that was open on our way to Fussa, where we stayed for the night.

Random thoughts…

Every time I go hiking, I find myself questioning my choices:
“Why did I decide to go on this hike?”
“Why do I keep doing this to myself?”
“What did I get myself into this time?”

These are just some of the thoughts that go through my head during the ascent — especially on the hardest parts of the trail. But then I realized that this is exactly what made me fall in love with hiking. It forces me to focus only on reaching the summit and nothing else. It clears my mind and leaves me with just one purpose: keep moving forward, keep breathing.

Everyone is dealing with their own struggles in daily life. That’s why I always try to find an outlet for the stress I carry from work, from people around me, and from the things life throws at me. We all need something that helps us unwind — and for me, lately, it’s hiking and painting.

HIKE LOG

Mt. Kumotori (2,017 masl)
NOV 04, 2024
(Saitama-ken/Yamanashi-ken/Tokyo-to)

Ascend : 10.8km / 5 hours 18 minutes (29 minutes total breaks)
07:30-12:45
12:45-13:40 (Lunch break)

Descend : 9.7km / 3 hours 35 minutes
13:40-17:15

Backpack Weight : 5kg
Water : 2L (Hydration Reservoir – I used Platypus Big Zip EVO for the first time and I love it! Bought mine from Koujitsu Sanso)
Difficulty : Apart from the steep part 40min before the summit, this hike was really enjoyable for the most part because of the nice views.

Thank you always for reading till the end!
I appreciate all the comments and love hearing feedbacks.
I organize beginner/intermediate hikes in Kanto area and joiners are always welcome so feel free to send me a message if you want to join us.

EAT, SLEEP, HIKE, REPEAT =)
#MarieJournals