Okutama Camping + Mt. Kumotori Hike

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Alright Demon Slayer fans…

You definitely know this mountain we hiked last week because it’s where Tanjiro Kamado and his family used to live. If you’ve seen the first episode of Kimetsu no Yaiba, you know which mountain I’m talking about. Episode 1 and this anime already got me crying my eyeballs out.

I recently started climbing mountains on the 100 famous mountains list / 百名山 / ヒャクメイザン and I think I’m hooked! Mt. Kumotori is my 19th peak/summit and my fourth on the Hyakumeizan list. On our descend I was already planning my fifth and sixth for the next hike.

NOV 03, 2024 – Everyone was telling me that this mountain is not that steep but it’s a long course so that makes it “a little” difficult in some parts. This is why we opted to stay at a nearby camp the night prior and have an early start the next day. We parked at the upper/outside parking lot near Hikawa Campsite and went to this free campsite but when we got there, we saw “No camping” signs all over the riverbank. One of the Japanese guys I talked to said that recently, the riverbank got smaller because of erosion so they don’t allow campers to setup tents there anymore to prevent accidents. We saw people hanging out though, they just can’t setup tents.

We called Hikawa Campsite if they can accommodate us for the night and they said no at first because they’re booked up, but eventually they gave in and let us stay, but I think it’s only because we have friends already staying there for the night.

There were six of us and we got 3 tents so I really recommend making a reservation early instead of trying what we did because there is a good chance that they will say no. We paid ¥2,500 each, please check their website for the latest campsite and parking fees.

We finished checking-in at 16:40 and started bringing our stuff from the car to the riverside where we will set up our tent but it was getting really dark we had to use our headlamps. It took the 3 of us 30minutes to set up our tent. This campsite was really nice and we wish we got there earlier so we could enjoy relaxing by the river. After setting up, we were too hungry and couldn’t wait for everyone so we decided to look around to get food. Unfortunately it was a busy weekend and most places are full.

TIP: Call the place first and see if they have available table first before heading there only to be turned away. Eventually we found an izakaya restaurant called MURAKI. They have ramen, okonomiyaki, onigiri and usual food you find in an izakaya. The izakaya has a homey vibe especially because the one making food is a Japanese obachan. The menu is all in Japanese and only on the wall, and she doesn’t speak English but we just looked at the pictures on google maps and showed her.

The portion was small than usual restaurants but standard for izakayas. The ramen was a good size for one person but we didn’t want to get too full so me and Sonia went half/half on the ramen. BUT we always room for dessert, so we bought ice cream at the convenience store before heading back to the campsite. In Japan they call this phenomenon- Betsubara / 別腹. It’s a really great excuse to have a cheat day.

After we got back, we managed to buy woods at their store before they close for about ¥800 (Half a box of the thick ones) but nobody could start the fire it was hilarious. Good thing, another friend Rona was staying at the same campsite and gave us a thing called igniter and started our fire. She saved us from the cold but I don’t think we can be trusted with a campfire because it almost went out when she left us, did I mention I know nothing about camping? Yeah… (My friend Manny watched some youtube tutorials at the time of writing so I think he can start a fire next time.)

Meanwhile our other friend Kenny got to the campsite while we were out and about and has already managed to set up his tent, finished prepping and cooking dinner, and even went to pick up our other friends from the station while we were trying to start the fire.
Note to self: Learn basic outdoor surviving skills.

After we had success in starting and keeping the fire burning. We started relaxing and stargazing. I think if you set up your tent a little closer to the river, you’ll have a better view because ours was obstructed by a big tree. The view was still great though. We just chose that area because we didn’t want to be too far from the bathroom. Next time we’ll make sure to get there early to pick the best spot.

We wanted to sleep early because we have to take down the tents early in the morning. I went to bed around 21:30 but couldn’t sleep. I don’t know if it’s because of the cold (about 5°C that night), my thin sleeping mat (there were stones poking on my back no matter how I position my mat or my back against the mat, my friend suggested an inflatable one so I think I’m gonna buy that next time.) or me wanting to go to the bathroom but I was too scared to go alone, or maybe the combination of everything.

I got up in the middle of the night and started wearing all my clothes including my down jacket and beanie. I also put those stick on warmer for my feet but I still did not get any sleep. Eventually we got up around 5:00 and took the tents down and started getting ready.

NOV 4, 2024 / 6:15 – We left the campsite and drove to Kamosawa Trailhead. We originally planned to go here early morning by bus and get off at Kamosawa Bus Stop and start walking from there to the trailhead but then we would have a late start because we would have to wait for the first bus trip and it’s an extra 1.5km walk to the trailhead (45min).

6:45– We decided to go by car instead and tried to park at Tabayama Village Public Parking Lot but it was already full when we got there. We saw some people parking on the spaces at the side of the road going up the parking lot and we found one at the third curb. It was about 7 min walk from where we parked to the actual parking lot.

07:30 – We left the parking lot and reached the actual trailhead at 7:35. From the trailhead (we started at 766 masl) it says it’s 10.8km to the summit. You might want to remember the kanji for this Kosode trailhead / 小袖登山口 / コソデトザングチ because most of the signs we saw are in Kanji and no English translation.

7:55 – We saw our first monkey.. another one 5min later and a lot more maybe 5-6? including baby monkeys a few minutes later.

We got really lucky with the weather that day because you can see Mt. Fuji so clearly.

10:15 – After 2 hours and 45 minutes, we finally reached Nanatsuishi Cabin. We ate here and had coffee. Nobody brought a burner and coffee this time so we just bought instant coffee for ¥300. They have toilet here that you can use (no payment but they accept donation). I event bought a t-shirt for souvenir because I really love the design.

While we were taking a break here, there was a group coming down and they were wearing Demon Slayer cosplay! I was so excited to see them I had to take a picture so I can send to my bestfriend’s daughter. She was the one who told me to watch the anime and I know she would love it.

10:50 – Break is over and we needed to start moving soon because we still have about 4.1km to go. The view after we left the hut was amazing. It was one of my favorite parts because we had lots of flat trails except for the last 1.5km. I really had a hard time the last 40min before the summit. The trail got really steep but if you turn around, you will be rewarded with the view that will take all your exhaustion away. It really made me feel that everything was worth it and this feeling is what’s addicting.

12:45 – Finally reached the summit. It wasn’t easy but we did it. We found a spot near the summit marker and had lunch. No one was selling anything here so we couldn’t eat our cup-ramen but good thing we bought lots of eggs and other snacks. They have a bathroom here but no tissue paper so you have to bring your own and put it in a bag and take it with you.

After lunch you know what’s next. Of course we took our sweet time taking pictures. Just kidding! I already see Kenny looking at the time because he said we should leave around 13:15 but we were still not done taking pictures.

13:40 – After our obligatory summit photoshoot, we started our descend. Oh boy, I underestimated this part. I have more confidence in climbing down a mountain than climbing up so I was ready to have fun and admire the view while descending. But my knees were still a little sore from the hike a week before that it started hurting a little too early this day.

14:55 – There was a branch called Nekonomata / 猫の又 that leads to a split path and we chose the one on the far right that will pass by the waterfalls which I really like but you don’t want to take this one if you have the slight fear of heights because the bridge doesn’t have a bridge railing. It’s not too long though so I think you’ll be good as long as you don’t look down. If you’re unsure, maybe you should take another route.

15:30 – We passed by a big tree that fell, so me and Sonia decided to take a “little break” there thinking we are close to the trailhead. I was even telling her maybe it will only take 30 minutes and didn’t even bothered catching up to the others.

17:15 – It took us 3 hours and 35minutes from the summit to the parking lot and it was already dark we had to use our headlamps. The others didn’t have any and they said they saw a baby bear near the abandoned hut about 30 minutes from the trailhead and started running because they were scared the momma bear is close by. We saw a few people descending at the same time but they were faster than us so it was just me and Sonia most of the descend.

This course is definitely not for beginners and I would recommend doing overnight hike instead of doing a dayhike like we did. I think it would be a more enjoyable hike if you can go slowly so you can admire the view better.

After our hike we went to Seoto-No-Yu for our usual post-hike care. I really love this place and I highly recommend. The outdoor bath is great and I love that they have a cold bath too. No tattoos allowed per the sign outside but you might be able to get away with a small one as long as you cover it with a tattoo tape. This is closer to Mt. Hinode/ Ome area though and about an hour drive from Mt. Kumotori parking lot. We only went here because most onsen in Okutama were closed because of the holiday and it’s the first one I saw that’s open on our way to Fussa where we stayed that night.

Random thoughts…

Everytime I go hiking, I really question myself why “I decided to go on that hike”, “Why do I keep doing this to myself”, “What did I get myself into this time?”. These are just some of the questions I ask myself during ascend, especially during the hard parts of the trail. But then again I think that’s what made me fall in LOVE hiking. It made me focus on just getting to the summit and not think of anything else. Gives me a clear head that only focuses on climbing up and breathing.

Everyone is going through lots of things in their daily lives. This is why I strive to find an outlet for the stress I get from work, from people around me, and just things that happen to me on a daily basis. We all need something to help us unwind and for me, it’s hiking and painting lately.

Hike Log:

Mt. Kumotori (2,017 masl)
NOV 04, 2024
(Saitama-ken/Yamanashi-ken/Tokyo-to)

Ascend : 10.8km / 5 hours 18 minutes (29 minutes total breaks)
07:30-12:45
12:45-13:40 (Lunch break)

Descend : 9.7km / 3 hours 35 minutes
13:40-17:15

Backpack Weight : 5kg
Water : 2L (Hydration Reservoir – I used Platypus Big Zip EVO for the first time and I love it! Bought mine from Koujitsu Sanso)
Difficulty : Apart from the steep part 40min before the summit, this hike was really enjoyable for the most part because of the nice views.

Thank you always for reading till the end!
I appreciate all the comments and love hearing feedbacks.
I organize beginner/intermediate hikes in Kanto area and joiners are always welcome so feel free to send me a message if you want to join us.

EAT, SLEEP, HIKE, REPEAT =)
#MarieJournals