Seasonal depression is real. Sending hugs to everyone like me who experiences it every now and then. It feels like it’s never going to end, like there’s no light at the end of the tunnel — but there is.
Every time I go through a depressive episode, I get physically ill at the same time. I don’t know if one triggers the other or if it’s just purely coincidental, but being sick and depressed feels like being kicked when you’re already down.
I go through a rollercoaster of emotions, and sometimes I don’t even know which one to process first. I want people to reach out and check on me, but at the same time, I want to be alone. Believe me when I say I confuse myself too sometimes.
So to my friends who understand me — thank you. Thank you for your patience when I go quiet and don’t reply for days. Thank you for not judging me when I’m already judging myself so harshly. And thank you for always welcoming me back after I disappear for a while. I appreciate you all more than you know.
Thank you, Pastor Fred, for calling me out of the blue last Friday to check in. I think that was what finally made me get up and shake it off. I truly believe God used you that day because He wasn’t getting through to me directly — so He used our shared Camino/Kumano Kodo connection to remind me that I’m not forgotten. Hope you have a safe pilgrimage this week, kuya.
After being stuck at home for days, I finally felt well enough to go for a long walk. Since it was supposed to rain on Sunday, I decided to go the day before instead.
I woke up that morning, packed my bag, and left. I didn’t really have a solid plan like I usually do. All I knew was that I wanted to go to Shosenkyo — to go on top of that round rock and hopefully, get a good view of Mt. Fuji. I was going to bring my tent, but I figured it might be too cold, so I left it behind and booked a BnB instead.
TIMELINE
Shosenkyo, Yamanashi
November 8, 2025
0900 – I took the train to Kofu Station found a locker to put my heavy pack because I was staying for 2 nights.
*I left my big bag (45L) at Kofu station at one of the coin lockers right after you got out of the ticket gate. They got 3-4? different sizes for the lockers and I think the biggest one can fit a regular suitcase. I was able to fit mine in the middle size locker.
I proceeded to go to the south exit and looked for the bus stop for Shosenkyo.
Fall season is very popular and I was told they run extra buses during this time of year. I also saw some people taking taxis. It’s about a 10 km / 20-minute drive, so if you’re traveling with others, you can split the cost among up to four people, which is the maximum number allowed in a taxi.
I got off at the bus stop called “Shosenkyo-iriguchi-Tenjimori” (after this one you can either get off at Greenline Shosenkyo or Shosenkyo Takiue infront of Shosenkyo Shadow Picture Museum) and walked to the ropeway station.
It took about three hours from the bus stop where I got off to the ropeway station because I often stopped for photos and coffee at one of the local shops. The trail is mostly flat and absolutely beautiful, following streams, waterfalls and bridges.
There aren’t many places to buy water on the first half of the hike. Some shops have even closed because the elderly owners can no longer run them. The café where I stopped for coffee will also close this year because the owners are retiring.
There are more shops around the second bus stop and the ropeway station. The ropeway costs 1,500 yen for a round trip. After getting off, you can walk to the observatory (about five minutes) or continue to Rakanjiyama (around 25 minutes more).
It’s an easy hike — even beginners should have no trouble — and it’s very solo-friendly. I was never alone on the trail for too long.
The line going down was long, I think I queued for almost an hour and I was getting tired by then, but I managed to catch the bus from the museum at 1622.
If I were to do this hike again, I’d probably get off at the bus stop in front of the museum, take the ropeway to the top, hike to Rakanjiyama, then return to the ropeway station. After that, either take the bus from the museum or walk all the way to the first bus stop if you have the energy and time.
I really wish there had been an onsen near Kofu Station — that would’ve been the cherry on top.
I was back at Kofu Station by 1720 and tried to look for food away from the station, but the first place I went to was an izakaya. So I headed to the restaurant floor of the CELEO Kofu Building — and there were so many options.
I was really craving meat and spotted a photo of a steak in front of a restaurant called Senpachi. Since it was my first full meal of the day, I was absolutely starving — and this one truly hit the spot.
I was so hungry I forgot to take a picture of what I ordered.
After dinner, I headed to Enzawa Station, where the owner of the minshuku would be picking me up. She offered to drop me off at this onsen near her place called Hayabusa Hot Spring just so I can go to onsen after my hike which was really sweet! She told me she would just pick me up after an hour and a half.
I saw some people eating there and they also have some vegetables and fruits at their store.
I stayed at Ladies Minshuku Grape Mama— a women-only guesthouse run by one of the coolest women I’ve ever met.
Mama used to operate a grape farm all by herself and later moved to this town about a decade ago. She shared how difficult it is to grow grapes and how meticulous the entire process is. Now that she’s older, she can no longer manage the workload on her own, so she decided to stop farming last year.
She renovated most of the house herself and managed everything on the farm single-handedly. She told me she loves figuring things out and learning herself how to do everything by watching youtube. She even keeps an album upstairs documenting all the work she’s done on the house.
Her minshuku has a really homey vibe, it’s like a home away from home. I ended up staying an extra night instead of my original plan.
It was raining all day the next day and I just stayed in bed most of the day. My stay included breakfast, and these were what she prepared for me.
I was physically tired from the previous day’s hike, and mentally and emotionally exhausted from life in general. This retreat was exactly what I needed to take a breather.
By the afternoon, I started getting hungry, so Mama offered to drop me off at a restaurant called Koshu Hoto Kanjukuya for dinner since I didn’t feel like eating konbini food at that time. I was craving a proper Japanese meal, so I ordered Yasai Tendon (Vegetable Tempura Rice Bowl), and it was really good.
After dinner, I took a taxi to Enzan Onsen Kouchisou for onsen. I paid only 400 yen to enter, and I honestly felt like I was robbing them. They have a smaller and simpler onsen for day use. The bigger onsen is reserved for hotel guests.
This town needs more tourists—it has so much to offer, especially if you’re tired of typical tourist traps and want a more off-the-beaten-path experience.
After my onsen session, Mama even picked me up so I wouldn’t have to walk in the dark. Sunset comes early during this time of year, and it’s already dark by around 5:30 PM.
If you’re looking for a place to stay where you can slow down and enjoy some peace, I highly recommend coming here. There’s also a winery and a hiking spot nearby, so you’ll still have things to do if you start to feel a little bored.
See the full Facebook album → [LINK]
HIKE LOG
Shosenkyo
Kofu, Yamanashi Prefecture
Garmin Record:
Distance : 9.72
Total Time : 5 hours (excluding ropeway time going down)
Elevation Gain : 685m
YAMAP LINK
Thank you for reading and being part of my little adventures.
Here’s to more mountains, more memories, and more moments that make us feel alive.
Until next time —
Eat. Sleep. Hike. Repeat =)
#MarieJournals